Saturday, May 4, 2013

Telluride Bouldering Beta Part 4- More From The Ilium Boulders


This video was filmed during the Fall of 2012. The goal was to continue to showcase some of best problems in Telluride, at all grades. I also made it a point to show some newer problems that were cleaned and climbed since the guidebook came out. These include 'Year Of Hibernation', 'Rainy Days In Bas Cuvier', 'Headlights Like Diamonds', 'The Hurst Problem' and 'Super Frogger'.

Problems shown include: 'All Our Yesterdays' (v6), 'Year Of Hibernation' (v6), 'Rainy Days In Bas Cuvier' (v3/4), 'Headlights Like Diamonds' (v5/6), 'Pinch' (v4), 'Fuck The Method' (v5), 'The Hurst Problem' (v5), 'Super Frogger' (V6), 'Free Range Sit' (v4) and 'Your Climbing Makes My Eyes Bleed' (v1+).

Some of the grades are different than what was given in the guidebook. This is simply an attempt to reflect the current grade consensus for each problem.

Hopefully this video will inspire and motivate people to visit/explore Ilium and Telluride. As always, comments/questions/thoughts are always welcome!

Enjoy!

Telluride Bouldering Beta Part 3- The Cove & Society Turn


This video was filmed during the winter of 2012-13. It showcases the bouldering from two spots in the Telluride area- The Cove and Society Turn. Though not as dense in quality or quantity as either Ilium or The Mine Boulders, both The Cove and Society Turn offer worthwhile problems on good quality stone. I tried to showcase some of the best problems at each area. Hopefully this entices some people to check these spots out!

Problems shown include:
From The Cove- 'Sometimes I Still Feel The Bruise, Right Exit' (v0), 'Flat Top Left Arete' (v3/4), 'Dyno-mite' (v6), and 'The Lesson' (jump start, v3/4).
From Society Turn- 'The Alien Traverse' (v6/7), 'Yarra River Eliminate' (v4/5) and 'Frosted Flakes Sit' (v5).

Some of the grades are different than the guidebook. This is an attempt to reflect what the current grade consensus is.

Special Note: 'The Lesson' is an outstanding problem. The true stand start starts one move lower with the left hand on a small angled crimp. You pull on to the wall, establish, and then figure out a way to grab the higher crimp out left. There are a couple of different options. Though it only adds about one move into the 'jump start', it is quite difficult and is likely around v8. I tried to get the stand start on video, but was unable to send it on any of the days I was filming.

As always, thoughts/comments are always welcome. Enjoy!

Friday, May 3, 2013

Spring Climbing Trip


Post ski season, Erika and I were able to make it out to Vegas and Bishop for about 10 days. During our time in Bishop, we primarily climbed at Rock Creek, due to the warm temps and my deep love for that place. In Vegas, we squeezed in an evening session at the Red Springs Boulders. Even though temps were in the high 80's, the shade and extremely windy weather made climbing possible. In both cases, I wanted to show some of the lesser shown/highlighted problems from those areas.
Problems shown include: 'Unnamed' (v7), 'The Fluke' (v8), 'Camel Love' (v4), 'Off The Couch' (v6), and 'The Blunder Bus' (v6)-- all from Rock Creek. And, 'The Prayer' (v6) from Red Springs.
Enjoy!

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

An Update


Though it has been a while since I last posted (5 months by my count!), that doesn't mean that I haven't been busy. This winter was not a great one for climbing- at least for me personally. I wasn't able to get outside climbing as much as I would've liked, as I battled sickness and an insane work schedule.

The good news is that the season is over, so now I'll have some free time! The bad news is that in keeping with the theme of this season, I am currently unable to climb while I let some stitches in my elbow heal. The wound was sustained while working on my nemesis project at The Cove. While not a major injury by any stretch, it's right on the joint, so I have to let the wound heal fully before I can start exerting pressure on it through climbing. Boring!

But, Erika and I are heading out on a two week trip tomorrow. We're going to be doing some sightseeing and hiking in southern Utah for 3 days and then working our way towards Bishop. We'll probably spend around a week there and then get a few days in at Joe's Valley before heading home. I have to catch a flight to New Hampshire on May 1 so our time is limited.

I've been climbing at Society Turn and The Cove primarily over the last few weeks, since Ilium was so slow to dry out. I've actually enjoyed the change of pace quite a bit and it was great to tick off most of my remaining projects. Erika and I also did a bunch of cleaning and trail maintenance at The Cove. It's looking quite good and hopefully climbing there will be an even more enjoyable experience for people now. If you haven't ever been out there, it's definitely worth a trip (perhaps several!).

I'm also working on a video that highlights Society Turn and The Cove, and another one for Ilium. Hope to get those posted at some point soon! Stay tuned.


Four From Big Bend!


This video was made during three separate days of climbing (winter 2013) at Big Bend outside of Moab, Utah. I tried to highlight some of the lesser seen/known problems there. I think we've all seen 'Circus Trick' enough times. :) 

Problems climbed include: 'Black Box Arete Left Sit Start' (v7/8?), 'Slappin The Block Sit' (v8?), 'Silly Wabbit' (v3) and 'Left Hand Of Darkness' (v7/8). A few of the climbs (mostly the first two problems shown) are given harder grades in the guidebook. I felt we climbed them in the most natural and uncontrived way possible, but perhaps those grades are meant for a slightly contrived version that doesn't use some of the holds that I did.

Any thoughts/feedback is always welcome and appreciated!

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Another Telluride Bouldering Beta Video- The Mine Boulders

Winter is back. And that means back to the snow for me. I'm currently at Copper Mountain, coaching at some race camps, as per usual. It's been a mild fall/winter so far and part of me hopes that will continue so that the climbing will be dry and warm!

Anyhow, I took advantage of being back in Telluride for a few weeks and spent a lot of time climbing at Ilium and The Mine. Here's a video I made of some of the best problems at The Mine. Another video of problems from Ilium will be coming soon. Enjoy!

Telluride Bouldering Beta Part 2- The Mine Boulders from Christian Prellwitz on Vimeo.

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Three Days In Blair Woods

Three Days In Blair Woods from Christian Prellwitz on Vimeo.

My last three days in New Hampshire before heading back home to Telluride. I spent it enjoying the crisp conditions (in between bouts of rain) at Pawtuckaway, specifically Blair Woods. Problems shown: 'Fuck The Method' (v6/7), Damn The Man (v7/8), Jeremy's Sick Crimps (v9??), Ball Doctor (v5 ), Pimp Juice (v5) and Pinkerton (v4). Enjoy!

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

some progress...


Well, I was able to resume climbing a week ago. It has been a little frustrating because I am not strong enough yet post surgery to be able to climb all of the things that I want. Instead, it's been a process of building the muscle back up through yoga, some training in the gym and some days outside.

Looking for some mellower, high volume days, Erika and I got on a rope at Rumney the other day. Erika crushed it on Lonesome Dove, which is an amazingly good slabby arete climb. And I managed to redpoint some 5.12's, so I guess I'm not a complete climbing mess right now. I'm looking forward to getting back on a rope again, and if I'm feeling up to it strength wise, giving Bottom Feeder some goes. It's a 5.13 that's made for boulderers like me. Basically, a v7 on a rope.

Getting on a rope has been fun. I still suck at clipping and have zero endurance. But, I'm a lot stronger than the last time I was on one (even in my current state) and that's always an enjoyable revelation.