Telluride Bouldering Beta- Ilium Boulders Video

Here's some footage that I've shot over the last few weeks (a warm & dry March created some stellar climbing conditions) of some of the best problems in Ilium. There are certainly plenty of great problems that I didn't have the time to climb/film, but I tried to choose some testpieces, as well as some more obscure problems in order to entice people to check them out! My hope is to eventually do a movie like this for the Mine Boulders and the Tree House as well. We'll see.

The grades of several problems are different from the guidebook. These grades are just my thoughts after having the last five or so years to refine the grades a bit. Any comments/thoughts/suggestions are greatly appreciated.

A few notes on the last two problems:

-'Frogger Dyno' has been done by Scotty Michels and probably a few other people. It's actually the way the problem was originally done. Though it is somewhat contrived not to exit right towards the top, it is a great mental and physical challenge to attempt the direct dyno. The day I filmed this was actually the first day I ever tried it this way. It's exciting! There is a bolt on top (that you might want to back up) for working it out on top rope, if desired.

-'White Wizard Right' I started trying this when I went up to film 'White Wizard' because it seemed hard but plausible. It is somewhat forced as one of the hardest parts is avoiding the boulder behind you, but the moves climb beautifully. The moves aren't super hard (maybe v6?) but I needed to figure out a little more beta to avoid having my feet cut. Jim Hurst informed me the other day that Paul Pierce had come up with an exit similar to this recently, apparently using a heel/toe cam of some sort, though I think his exit took a different path since the exit holds I brushed were covered in dirt and lichen. If I find out more about this, I'll update this post...

New Problem (sort of) at the Mine Boulders

I made it down to Telluride this past weekend and found the usual crew- Wylder Wilson, Damon Johnston, Jim Hurst and Andy Cook- hard at work: clearing trails, looking for new boulders and giving fresh love to the chossy underbelly of one of the best looking lines in Telluride. We have all touched the holds on this climb at some point but decided the prospect of a seventy pound cobble breaking off on our face was not worth the risk. Well, after their admirable efforts, the line is now climbing beautifully--a 25-30 foot roof climbed on a wonderful assortment of pockets, incuts and cobbles leads to a difficult lip encounter and a satisfying cobble jug. No one has sent the full problem yet, but speculation is that it will fall somewhere in the v10 range. Here are some pics of Wylder working through several of the moves. (for those with a guidebook, this problem is located on the 'Gym Boulder')

Telluride Trip

Erika Curry-Elrod climbing 'Every Hole's A Goal' (v2) at the Mine Boulders.

Erika and I made a trip down to Telluride last weekend in order to get away from the Front Range for a few days. We watched the rodeo in Norwood, climbed a bit, hiked and shot a bunch of photos. (note: the first two photos were shot by me, the rest were taken by Erika- thanks!)

Tree House Bouldering Video

Tree House Boulders, Telluride from Tyler H on Vimeo.

Here's a video of my friend Tyler Hogan sending one of the best lines in Telluride- the 'Prow Project' at the Tree House Boulders . Not sure if anyone else has climbed this yet, but it's a spectacular line and a proud send for Tyler. Not sure about the grade yet either-- maybe v9? If anyone else has climbed this line, feel free to chip in your opinion on the grade. Enjoy!

An Afternoon At Ilium

Annabelle Boelema- 'This Airplane Will Crash Tomorrow' (v0+/1)

A quick update on Telluride bouldering conditions, as of April 5th:

Ilium-- scattered patches of snow on the ground, but all of the boulders are dry
The Mine-- still lots of snow on the ground and on many of the boulders, road still closed
The Cove-- dry boulders and no snow
Society Turn-- dry
Eider Creek/Tree House-- haven't been up there but the road looks dry and passable, probably still some patches of snow and wet spots on boulders, but the majority of climbs should be dry

Enjoy!

Telluride Bouldering Beta- The Mine Boulders

I thought it would be fun to share a little info on some of The Mine Boulders' classic problems. I have also listed the page number that this problem can be found on in the guidebook. Check out "A Bouldering Guide To The Telluride & West End Areas" by Christian Prellwitz for more information. The guide can be found locally at Between the Covers, Paragon Sports and Jagged Edge. It can also be found online at Bent Gate, as well as many other retailers.

(All pics courtesy of Erika Curry-Elrod)

'Karma' (v3) p.30

This mega classic line has a bit of everything. Follow the perfect line of edges and crimps up the right side of the wall to a dynamic move to a good, but flat jug. Pull through to a magical mystery top out hold. Simply amazing! One of the best problems in Telluride. Tip: beware of the rocks at the base, especially the one to the climber's right- they can definitely come into play if you come off unexpectedly.

'Clothes, Bankrolls & Hoes' (v7) p.30

About ten feet left of 'Karma', this problem ascends the center of the face starting matched on a good edge at around 6 feet. A powerful first pull to a small edge leads to a tiny crimp out left. Find some feet that work and make a big move to a better edge about 1-2 feet below the lip. If you made it this far, the top is a breeze! A somewhat funky landing that can be well protected with about three or more pads. Sort of highball. Clean and pure! Be sure to check out 'C.R.E.A.M.' (v6), which is the leftmost line on the face. Every line on this boulder is outstanding!

'Every Hole's A Goal' (v2) p.22

This line is one of the most tried/climbed problems in the Telluride area. Start matched in the giant hole, and follow an obvious line of pockets to the somewhat tall finish. Can be climbed with super techy beta or thuggery. Both ways are fun. A good introduction to the grade.

'The Crying Of Lot 49' v3/4 p.23

I suck at dynos so this problem is impossible for me to grade. Jim Hurst suggested v3, but he's tall with a big wingspan. I personally find this to be more like v4 and a challenge for me at that grade. Simple beta: grab a crimpy sidepull with the left and either a large crimpy pebble or a slopey edge (further right) with the right. Dyno for the triangle shaped hold. Sticking it is hard (for me at least!). There is another fun dyno problem to the left of this- 'Light Years' (v3/4)- starting matched on the big shelf and hucking for a textured sloper. The super classic 'Gravity's Rainbow' (v2+) climbs the arete at right.

'Broken Ankle' (v1+) p.23

This is one of the finest slabs in the Telluride area. A tricky start (take a look at the feet!) leads to beautifully flowing moves between small crimps and sidepulls, and a rewarding highball finish. This line deserves way more traffic than it gets! The line to the right, 'Broken Leg' (v0+), is an easier alternative (albeit with a much worse landing).

Some scenery:

Telluride Bouldering Beta- Ilium

I thought it would be fun to share a little info on some of Ilium's classic problems. I have also listed the page number that this problem can be found on in the guidebook. Check out "A Bouldering Guide To The Telluride & West End Areas" by Christian Prellwitz for more information. The guide can be found locally at Between the Covers, Paragon Sports and Jagged Edge. It can also be found online at Bent Gate, as well as many other retailers.

(All pics courtesy of Erika Curry-Elrod)

'Pinch' (v4) p.66

Given v3 in the book, this powerful prow probably falls more in the v4 range (maybe even hard v4?). Start sitting below the obvious prow with your left hand in a good undercling and your right on any one of an assortment of holds. Many people use a pinch (hence the name). I personally prefer a tiny crimp, located right above the pinch. Hard, burly moves ensue. This is one of my favorite problems at Ilium. But, you have to try hard!

'Itsy Bitsy Spider' (v7/8) p.75

The testpiece of the area. Thin crimps on a slightly overhanging face. Beautiful and pure. Start on the two obvious low crimps/edges. Make a hard move right to more crimps. Set your feet for the crux deadpoint to another sloping edge, just below the top. Snag this and then the top. Be ready for a tricky mantle. Pine needles often accumulate on the top of this boulder. Definitely brush the top before attempting. It would suck to fall after all the hard moves are over because of a few pine needles! It's important to note that 'Itsy Bitsy' does not use the good crimp further right. It seems plausible as a variation and is probably quite a bit easier (I haven't tried it yet). This crimp is also part of the 'Itsy Bitsy Arete' (v1+).

Spidey Sense (v4) p.75

Around the corner from 'Itsy Bitsy', this vertical face really boils down to the starting move. From a sit start, match hands on an obvious diagonal edge on the left side of the face. Choose from a selection of small feet. Pull hard and stick the slopey edge at 8.5 feet. Easy moves follow. Beware of the dirty top out.

Telluride Bouldering Conditions Update

Noah Sheedy- 'The Grinch' (v3/4)

Just wanted to give a quick conditions update for bouldering in the Telluride area. The weather is quite nice these days, though the occasional snow shower still makes an appearance. (The accompanying photos are from the last two days.)

-Everything down valley of Society Turn is dry, including Ilium. It's getting pretty warm out in the desert, but good conditions can still be found in the evenings.
-The Eider Creek Boulders (Tree House) are dry as well.
-Bear Creek can be a little snowy and wet in spots on the approach but the blocks are dry for the most part.
-The Mine Boulders are dry for the most part as well, with snow still found at the base of some climbs. In fact, this is one of the best times to climb at the Mine because the vegetation hasn't filled back in yet, so no nettles to deal with and it's quite easy to get around and find boulders if you're unfamiliar with the area.

The friction is high and gravity's pull is low. No excuses. Get outside and start sending!

Kaylie Rozen- 'This Airplane Will Crash Tomorrow' (v0+)

All Fires- AEC Bouldering

The sun sets over the La Sal Mountains

Christian Prellwitz- 'Smile Left' (v3/3+)

It's been a very cold and snowy December so far, which has made climbing outside quite difficult. I've had several planned road trips get shut down by big snowstorms. With the busy Christmas period just around the corner, I was desperate to get on some real rock. Luckily, the weather was quite beautiful yesterday and I was able to make it out to the Atomic Energy Boulders with a couple of friends.

'Dare To Compare' (v2/3)

Simon Hutton- 'Breaking The Waves' (v0+/1, from the stand)

Hannah Gordon- 'Sunshine Arete' (v0)

'Broken Feet' (v1/1+)

'Red Baron' (v0)

'All fires have to burn alive to live...'

Eternal Sunshine- Bouldering At The AEC

It's really a blessed life. Wake up to bluebird skies. Pick up a breakfast sandwich and coffee at the local bakery. Make the meandering drive through canyons and over mesas, past bald eagles and pinyon jays, out of the mountains and into the open expanse of the desert. Park amid a sea of sandstone blocks and swim around through the junipers and pinions looking for that perfect line of crimpers and pockets.

It's the process and all the moments in between that make the experience, that elevates clumsied movement to imperfect poetry. Sunshine gives life to belief, and belief informs action, lifting us up to heights we'd only imagined.

The pictures:
(above) 1-Christian Prellwitz sticking the edge on the initial crux of 'Black Streak' (v3+). 2-Lone Cone and Petroglyph Crag linger in the background as Lexi Tuddenham journeys out onto 'Ship's Prow' (v1+).
(below) 1-Lexi Tuddenham sticking the pinch on 'Roadside Attraction' (v2). 2-Lexi again, this time on 'Easy Up' (v0+). 3-'Lake Lover' (v0). 4-A different take on a familiar problem: Christian styles the finishing pulls of 'Ship's Prow' (v1+).

A Short Trip To The Gunks

Dasha and I were able to make it up to the Gunks recently for a couple days of bouldering. We forgot to grab the camera from the car on the first day so we only have a few worthwhile pictures. It was great getting to climb again with Dasha- her grace always inspires me. The weather was fantastic and the fall foliage was beautiful. Hopefully, the pictures give some sense of that.

1-Dasha Zamolodchikov eyeing her nemesis problem, the 'Dislocator Roof' (V2) at the Trapps. 2-Dasha pulling through the opening moves of 'Clune's Crank' (V1). 3-Dasha positioned well on the final two crimps of 'Clune's Crank'. All that's left is one big move to the top! 4-Christian Prellwitz on the 'Black Box Boulder Problem' (V5). Sorry for the blurry picture! Dasha was shooting in auto mode and I forgot to tell her to switch the lens from manual to auto focus. This problem is so beautiful that I thought it was worth putting a blurry picture up.

Telluride Bouldering Revival

No, this is not the name of the headlining band at this year's Blues & Brews Festival. It's simply the best way that I can describe what's going on with Telluride bouldering right now. The quality of the boulders being uncovered in the Eider Creek area is phenomenal, and it seems like there are plenty more yet to be discovered. A large crew of climbers spent this past weekend up at the Tree House Boulders, cleaning and clearing a number of new problems. Here are some of the gems that were unearthed this weekend. 1-Jim Hurst is manly enough to wear a pink shirt. Is he manly enough to conquer 'Andy's Anal Tricks'? 2-There's no admission fee for this gun show. Scotty Michels powers through a difficult section on a still unclimbed line. 3-The Tree House looms in the background as Scotty Michels revels in the celebrity treatment on the 'Cheeseburger Arete'.