Day Trip To Moab

I've hardly been able to do any climbing since I got back to Telluride from New York. I made it out for one spectacular day about a week before Thanksgiving. Since then I've been on the snow every day for almost three weeks straight. I finally got a day off on Friday and the weather, while not the bluebird day that was promised, was nice enough to allow my friend Lexi and I to make it out to Moab for a fun day of bouldering.

Here are some pics of Lexi tearing it up: 1-Lexi sticking the initial crimp on 'BBB-4' (V1). 2-Lexi making progress on an unnamed V1. 3-Lexi scoping for holds on 'Right Exit' (V1).

Long Island Bouldering- Cutchogue & Greenport

Today, I headed to a great collection of boulders in the Cutchogue area. I had been eyeing two lines on a large block there since last fall. Unfortunately, the base of this boulder is covered with water except for a half an hour or so on either side of low tide. Consequently, I had to wait for a day when the tide schedule worked for me.

This gorgeous piece of rock is one of the tallest and best boulders on Long Island. There are two great lines with potential for maybe one or two hard variations. I would recommend bringing a wire brush for cleaning barnacles off the bottom footholds and an extension ladder for getting off the boulder as the two climbs are difficult to reverse, and the easiest downclimbs require a jump into the water to finish them off. I suppose that could be fun on a hot day. Just watch out for rocks hidden in the water below. I would love to have some pictures of me on these problems but I was flying solo on this day.

I'm not sure if these problems have been climbed before. I've named them for fun, not out of disrespect. As for the grades, how wet the lower feet are is an important factor, so the grades are just guesses. Here are some pictures and descriptions:

(below) 'Golden' (V1/2) This is a proud line up the obvious weakness on the main face. Start low on the right side of the lowest horizontal. Follow it left and then up on good edges, crimps and sidepulls to an airy but fairly easy top out. The base of this problem changes with the movement of sand each winter. As of right now, it is dry at the start, but once you traverse left you are over shallow water. It can be protected with pads, as long as you don't mind them getting wet. The best conditions would be a full or new moon low tide with an offshore breeze. In that situation, the base might be completely dry. The landing could probably be filled in to make it drier with a little work.


(below) 'Each Wave That Breaks' (V3/4) This is another proud line. The lowest foot is often wet but not critical. Start matched on a two hand sloped edge at 6-7 feet. Stab for the sloping crescent hold up and right. Step on a high right foot, match hands, and pull a powerful move to a good jug. From here, good footwork and crimps lead to a relatively easy but exciting finish. The base of this problem is entirely dry at low tide.

(below) This pic shows 'Golden' on the left and 'Each Wave That Breaks' on the right.
After climbing in Cutchogue a bit, I headed a little farther east to Greenport and spent a few hours messing around on the Sound Road Boulder (first picture below) and the Rock Cove Boulder (second picture below). The Sound Road Boulder offers fun face and slab climbs mostly in the V0-V2 range, with a few harder lines. The Rock Cove Boulder has easy sit starts on its south face and, on the face pictured below, about six lines with difficult and tricky starts that lead to a large horizontal and easier climbing above.

Central Park Bouldering

I spent Sunday in New York City visiting Dasha. We decided to take advantage of the beautiful weather and explore the boulders of Central Park. I have always intended to climb in the park, but the opportunity never really came up. Sunday was the perfect day to change that. We expected Rat Rock to be the busiest place (and it was, with around fifteen climbers hanging out) so we decided to head to Cat Rock for a more low key experience. We were the only climbers at Cat Rock, though many interested passersby came over to take a closer look at what we were up to. Overall, I was pretty impressed with the quality of the climbing, and the rock. Hopefully, I'll get a chance to climb there more in the future.

Some pics: (above) The posh hotels of Central Park South loom in the background as Dasha cruises a super easy warm up. (below) 1-Dasha Zamolodchikov claws her way up 'Cat Crack' (V0-). 2-Christian Prellwitz setting up for the last move of 'Fancy Feast' (V3).

Long Island Bouldering- Wildwood State Park

After having a great time in East Marion on Saturday, Dasha and I enjoyed a lazy Sunday morning, lingering over breakfast and taking a nice boat ride to Great Gun Beach. We decided to head to Wildwood State Park for some climbing before Dasha had to retreat back to the city. Wildwood is a beautiful park, especially this time of year when the crowds have thinned out and the leaves are changing color.

There are two distinct bouldering areas. The Beach Boulders offer maybe a dozen problems with most of them being either fairly easy or fairly hard. The Bluff Boulders offer around 15-20 problems, most of them concentrated on one large boulder, with two smaller blocks adding a few lines. Of the two, the Bluff Boulders are the more frequently visited and this is where Dasha and I chose to spend the afternoon. An enjoyable twenty minute hike through stands of elm, oak, maple, sassafras and beech deposits you at the top of a short, steep trail down to the boulders.

The pics: (above) Dasha Zamolodchikov sticking the crux sloper on 'Kash Size' V1+ (below) 1-Dasha using her own unique beta on 'Crescent Moon' (V0+). 2-Christian Prellwitz midway through 'Agoraphobia' (V2). 3-Christian moving through the opening sequence of 'Blunt' (V2). 4-A sunset pose.

Long Island Bouldering- East Marion

Dasha came out to visit me this weekend. We drove straight from the train station on Friday out to the North Fork, stopping along the way to grab some fresh picked apples and sugar donuts at Wickham's Farm in Cutchogue, before finally reaching our destination- East Marion. This town, located only a few miles from the easternmost point on the North Fork, is home to some of the best bouldering on Long Island. Scattered about a mile long stretch of beach at the end of Rocky Point Road are numerous boulders of all sizes. Most are too small to climb, but eight or so of the blocks offer up high quality problems from one move wonders to sketchy highballs. With about two to three dozen independent lines, and countless variations and eliminates, this dense grouping of blocks is regarded by many as the epicenter of Long Island bouldering. Sandy landings and the constant hum of waves add to the experience.

The pics: (above) Dasha Zamolodchikov on the starting moves of an amazing unnamed V1. (below) 1-The serenity of East Marion bouldering. Dasha Zamolodchikov on an unnamed V2. 2-Dasha toeing into the crux high step move on an unnamed V2. 3-Dasha displays her battle wounds. 4-Christian Prellwitz provides a different perspective on a classic problem.

A Short Trip To The Gunks

Dasha and I were able to make it up to the Gunks recently for a couple days of bouldering. We forgot to grab the camera from the car on the first day so we only have a few worthwhile pictures. It was great getting to climb again with Dasha- her grace always inspires me. The weather was fantastic and the fall foliage was beautiful. Hopefully, the pictures give some sense of that.

1-Dasha Zamolodchikov eyeing her nemesis problem, the 'Dislocator Roof' (V2) at the Trapps. 2-Dasha pulling through the opening moves of 'Clune's Crank' (V1). 3-Dasha positioned well on the final two crimps of 'Clune's Crank'. All that's left is one big move to the top! 4-Christian Prellwitz on the 'Black Box Boulder Problem' (V5). Sorry for the blurry picture! Dasha was shooting in auto mode and I forgot to tell her to switch the lens from manual to auto focus. This problem is so beautiful that I thought it was worth putting a blurry picture up.

Cathedral Ledge

Recently, my friend Jared Vilhauer came out from Telluride to visit me. We spent most of the 11 days he was here exploring the diversity of rock in the Northeast. From the perfect granite slabs of Cathedral Ledge, to the steep schist of Rumney, the alpine environment of Cannon and the juggy roofs of the Gunks, we saw a little bit of it all. Jared has most of the pics on his camera as it's size and weight made it the better choice for the multi pitch climbing we were doing. Here are a few I took on our first day at Cathedral Ledge.

1-Jared about to start up the great second pitch of 'Bombardment' (5.8). 2-Jared starting the second rappel after climbing 'Book of Solemnity' (5.10a).

One From The Tree House

It's been a while since I've posted. I am back on Long Island now and while I have gone climbing several times, I have been alone each time. Consequently, I have no pics. My policy is 'no pics, no post'. However, Damon Johnston just sent me a picture that he took of me climbing at the Tree House Boulders. This fun problem does not have a name yet but it is located just to the right of the problem Damon is climbing in my previous post. For more cool photos, check out Damon's blog.

It will be a while before I post again but when I do I should have plenty of pics. My friend Jared Vilhauer is flying here on Friday from Colorado and we are going to be spending 10 days climbing all throughout the Northeast. Plans include Cathedral Ledge, Whitehorse Ledge, Cannon Cliff, the Gunks, Rumney and several bouldering areas. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and we'll have lots of great pics to share!

Fall Days

Fall has arrived in the San Juans. It is an ephemeral moment in the mountains. Maybe a month, maybe six weeks and then gone, lost in the chill and falling snow of winter. The aspens turn yellow, the Gambel oak burns red, and somewhere out in the forest Dakota sandstone blocks are colored white with chalk. The days are cool and crisp and the air is heavy with the promise of problems yet to be climbed, projects that will yield themselves on these low gravity days.

Some recent pics:
1-Damon Johnston flowing through the stellar moves of 'Woodsy Way' on yet another new boulder at the Tree House. 2-Damon finishing up. Just high enough to make you think. 3-Damon Johnston on an amazing project. There is a harder start that traverses into this problem on incredibly powerful moves. 4-Lexi Tuddenham crimping hard on the short, but tricky 'Scotty's Problem'.

A Few Routes From Cracked Canyon

On Thursday, I met up with two friends- Jared Vilhauer and John Sturdevant for a short day of climbing in Cracked Canyon. Now, I don't spend that much time on a rope in a year, and I certainly don't spend much time climbing cracks, but for these two guys I was willing to make an exception. Jared was my first climbing partner in Telluride and we've been climbing together off and on for the last six years. We couldn't be more different when it comes to what inspires us climbing wise, but we always find a way to compromise. I'll do multipitch routes with him and he'll come climb the small blocks with me. I've known Sturdy for as long as I've known Jared and he's always a welcome companion on any trip. It was a super fun day. The routes were great and the weather was nice. Most importantly, I was climbing with friends, and that makes any day worthwhile.

Here are a few pics from the day. 1-Jared Vilhauer getting started on 'Orange Peel' (5.10). 2-Jared looking silky smooth on the middle section of 'Orange Peel'. 3-John Sturdevant nearing the end of his lead of 'Round The Corner' (5.7). This route has a tricky move halfway up the route, and Sturdy did it proud. Nice job!