Dasha came out to visit me this weekend. We drove straight from the train station on Friday out to the North Fork, stopping along the way to grab some fresh picked apples and sugar donuts at Wickham's Farm in Cutchogue, before finally reaching our destination- East Marion. This town, located only a few miles from the easternmost point on the North Fork, is home to some of the best bouldering on Long Island. Scattered about a mile long stretch of beach at the end of Rocky Point Road are numerous boulders of all sizes. Most are too small to climb, but eight or so of the blocks offer up high quality problems from one move wonders to sketchy highballs. With about two to three dozen independent lines, and countless variations and eliminates, this dense grouping of blocks is regarded by many as the epicenter of Long Island bouldering. Sandy landings and the constant hum of waves add to the experience.The pics: (above) Dasha Zamolodchikov on the starting moves of an amazing unnamed V1. (below) 1-The serenity of East Marion bouldering. Dasha Zamolodchikov on an unnamed V2. 2-Dasha toeing into the crux high step move on an unnamed V2. 3-Dasha displays her battle wounds. 4-Christian Prellwitz provides a different perspective on a classic problem.
3 comments:
You guys may want to get some local beta. The first problem is v3 ish from the sit. The second problem she is working goes out right around the tip using some not so obvious crimps for a great v7 line called ride the rail. Most of the lines on the big boulder are well established and rate up to v10.
Jeremy, thanks for your input. I've climbed at East Marion off and on for about four years, basically whenever I'm back in NY visiting my parents. I know most of the lines have names and grades, but I don't know them too well. Same thing with Wildwood. We named those problems just for our own personal fun. As for the grades, Dasha started a bit higher than the sit, thus easing the grade. Also, 'Ride the Rail' is a bit beyond her ability, so she topped straight out from the hold she's matched on in both photos, via a small crimp bump to a pinch. It's pretty fun, and a good alternative to the other line for those who can't climb it. Any additional beta you have is always appreciated. I'd love to compare notes. Thanks!
Next time you're out this way you might want to stop at Island Rock gym in Plainview. If you ask for Jack then he would probably tell you about some of the established lines (I think he has the FA of Ride the Rail). Otherwise just flip me an e-mail next time. If I'm still living here we could meet some weekend. My e-mail is reventropy2003@yahoo.com.
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