Long Island Bouldering- East Marion

Dasha came out to visit me this weekend. We drove straight from the train station on Friday out to the North Fork, stopping along the way to grab some fresh picked apples and sugar donuts at Wickham's Farm in Cutchogue, before finally reaching our destination- East Marion. This town, located only a few miles from the easternmost point on the North Fork, is home to some of the best bouldering on Long Island. Scattered about a mile long stretch of beach at the end of Rocky Point Road are numerous boulders of all sizes. Most are too small to climb, but eight or so of the blocks offer up high quality problems from one move wonders to sketchy highballs. With about two to three dozen independent lines, and countless variations and eliminates, this dense grouping of blocks is regarded by many as the epicenter of Long Island bouldering. Sandy landings and the constant hum of waves add to the experience.

The pics: (above) Dasha Zamolodchikov on the starting moves of an amazing unnamed V1. (below) 1-The serenity of East Marion bouldering. Dasha Zamolodchikov on an unnamed V2. 2-Dasha toeing into the crux high step move on an unnamed V2. 3-Dasha displays her battle wounds. 4-Christian Prellwitz provides a different perspective on a classic problem.

A Short Trip To The Gunks

Dasha and I were able to make it up to the Gunks recently for a couple days of bouldering. We forgot to grab the camera from the car on the first day so we only have a few worthwhile pictures. It was great getting to climb again with Dasha- her grace always inspires me. The weather was fantastic and the fall foliage was beautiful. Hopefully, the pictures give some sense of that.

1-Dasha Zamolodchikov eyeing her nemesis problem, the 'Dislocator Roof' (V2) at the Trapps. 2-Dasha pulling through the opening moves of 'Clune's Crank' (V1). 3-Dasha positioned well on the final two crimps of 'Clune's Crank'. All that's left is one big move to the top! 4-Christian Prellwitz on the 'Black Box Boulder Problem' (V5). Sorry for the blurry picture! Dasha was shooting in auto mode and I forgot to tell her to switch the lens from manual to auto focus. This problem is so beautiful that I thought it was worth putting a blurry picture up.

Cathedral Ledge

Recently, my friend Jared Vilhauer came out from Telluride to visit me. We spent most of the 11 days he was here exploring the diversity of rock in the Northeast. From the perfect granite slabs of Cathedral Ledge, to the steep schist of Rumney, the alpine environment of Cannon and the juggy roofs of the Gunks, we saw a little bit of it all. Jared has most of the pics on his camera as it's size and weight made it the better choice for the multi pitch climbing we were doing. Here are a few I took on our first day at Cathedral Ledge.

1-Jared about to start up the great second pitch of 'Bombardment' (5.8). 2-Jared starting the second rappel after climbing 'Book of Solemnity' (5.10a).

One From The Tree House

It's been a while since I've posted. I am back on Long Island now and while I have gone climbing several times, I have been alone each time. Consequently, I have no pics. My policy is 'no pics, no post'. However, Damon Johnston just sent me a picture that he took of me climbing at the Tree House Boulders. This fun problem does not have a name yet but it is located just to the right of the problem Damon is climbing in my previous post. For more cool photos, check out Damon's blog.

It will be a while before I post again but when I do I should have plenty of pics. My friend Jared Vilhauer is flying here on Friday from Colorado and we are going to be spending 10 days climbing all throughout the Northeast. Plans include Cathedral Ledge, Whitehorse Ledge, Cannon Cliff, the Gunks, Rumney and several bouldering areas. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and we'll have lots of great pics to share!

Fall Days

Fall has arrived in the San Juans. It is an ephemeral moment in the mountains. Maybe a month, maybe six weeks and then gone, lost in the chill and falling snow of winter. The aspens turn yellow, the Gambel oak burns red, and somewhere out in the forest Dakota sandstone blocks are colored white with chalk. The days are cool and crisp and the air is heavy with the promise of problems yet to be climbed, projects that will yield themselves on these low gravity days.

Some recent pics:
1-Damon Johnston flowing through the stellar moves of 'Woodsy Way' on yet another new boulder at the Tree House. 2-Damon finishing up. Just high enough to make you think. 3-Damon Johnston on an amazing project. There is a harder start that traverses into this problem on incredibly powerful moves. 4-Lexi Tuddenham crimping hard on the short, but tricky 'Scotty's Problem'.

A Few Routes From Cracked Canyon

On Thursday, I met up with two friends- Jared Vilhauer and John Sturdevant for a short day of climbing in Cracked Canyon. Now, I don't spend that much time on a rope in a year, and I certainly don't spend much time climbing cracks, but for these two guys I was willing to make an exception. Jared was my first climbing partner in Telluride and we've been climbing together off and on for the last six years. We couldn't be more different when it comes to what inspires us climbing wise, but we always find a way to compromise. I'll do multipitch routes with him and he'll come climb the small blocks with me. I've known Sturdy for as long as I've known Jared and he's always a welcome companion on any trip. It was a super fun day. The routes were great and the weather was nice. Most importantly, I was climbing with friends, and that makes any day worthwhile.

Here are a few pics from the day. 1-Jared Vilhauer getting started on 'Orange Peel' (5.10). 2-Jared looking silky smooth on the middle section of 'Orange Peel'. 3-John Sturdevant nearing the end of his lead of 'Round The Corner' (5.7). This route has a tricky move halfway up the route, and Sturdy did it proud. Nice job!

Reel Rock Comes To Telluride

Last night, the Reel Rock Tour came to Telluride. The Sheridan Opera House was packed with people psyched on seeing the latest and greatest climbing films. The Tour did not disappoint. First, there were some great shorts- 'The Readiness Is All' was my favorite. The Big Up Dosage from Rocklands was amazing. The boulders are super aesthetic, and the climbing was inspiring. The feature film- First Ascent- was shot in beautiful HD and the landscapes were amazing. Props go to local Jim Hurst, who shot some of the best footage of the whole evening, in particular Dean Potter BASE-soloing the north face of the Eiger.

Damon and I did a little book signing before the show, and participated in the giveaway at intermission with tour organizer Peter Mortimer. We gave away some copies of our books, as well as some chalk bags and chalk buckets that Josh from Organic Climbing was nice enough to donate. Local shop Jagged Edge also gave away a number of items. Overall, it was a fun event and everyone left the theater stoked on climbing.

(below) Dasha Zamolodchikov working through the tricky opening moves of 'Frogger' on the Road Boulder at Ilium.

A Quick Trip To Joe's Valley

It feels great to be climbing again. It's such a joy to feel rock in my hands after being unable to for two and a half months. I've been taking it slowly, climbing some of my favorite problems at Ilium and the Mine Boulders, and playing around on some of the new problems up at Eider Creek. Now that I'm closer to 100% and heading back to New York in a little under two weeks, I decided it would be fun to head somewhere other than Telluride to climb for a few days. Joe's Valley is only about four hours away and has some of the best bouldering in the country so it was a logical choice for a quick excursion. My friend Lexi Tuddenham joined me for the trip and we had a wonderful few days, enjoying very pleasant temperatures and encountering very few climbers- a rarity for Joe's Valley. Here are some pics. 1-Lexi Tuddenham pulling through the abundant jugs of 'Warm Me Up Scotty' (V1). 2-Lexi squirming her way through 'Scuzlocks' (V-funny). 3-Christian Prellwitz groping for friction on the slopey crux of 'Filla Void' (V6). 4-The sun sets on another beautiful day at Joe's Valley.

More From The Tree House

Here are a few more photos from the Tree House Boulders, courtesy of Damon Johnston.

Telluride Bouldering Revival

No, this is not the name of the headlining band at this year's Blues & Brews Festival. It's simply the best way that I can describe what's going on with Telluride bouldering right now. The quality of the boulders being uncovered in the Eider Creek area is phenomenal, and it seems like there are plenty more yet to be discovered. A large crew of climbers spent this past weekend up at the Tree House Boulders, cleaning and clearing a number of new problems. Here are some of the gems that were unearthed this weekend. 1-Jim Hurst is manly enough to wear a pink shirt. Is he manly enough to conquer 'Andy's Anal Tricks'? 2-There's no admission fee for this gun show. Scotty Michels powers through a difficult section on a still unclimbed line. 3-The Tree House looms in the background as Scotty Michels revels in the celebrity treatment on the 'Cheeseburger Arete'.