Telluride Bouldering Beta- Ilium Boulders Video

Here's some footage that I've shot over the last few weeks (a warm & dry March created some stellar climbing conditions) of some of the best problems in Ilium. There are certainly plenty of great problems that I didn't have the time to climb/film, but I tried to choose some testpieces, as well as some more obscure problems in order to entice people to check them out! My hope is to eventually do a movie like this for the Mine Boulders and the Tree House as well. We'll see.

The grades of several problems are different from the guidebook. These grades are just my thoughts after having the last five or so years to refine the grades a bit. Any comments/thoughts/suggestions are greatly appreciated.

A few notes on the last two problems:

-'Frogger Dyno' has been done by Scotty Michels and probably a few other people. It's actually the way the problem was originally done. Though it is somewhat contrived not to exit right towards the top, it is a great mental and physical challenge to attempt the direct dyno. The day I filmed this was actually the first day I ever tried it this way. It's exciting! There is a bolt on top (that you might want to back up) for working it out on top rope, if desired.

-'White Wizard Right' I started trying this when I went up to film 'White Wizard' because it seemed hard but plausible. It is somewhat forced as one of the hardest parts is avoiding the boulder behind you, but the moves climb beautifully. The moves aren't super hard (maybe v6?) but I needed to figure out a little more beta to avoid having my feet cut. Jim Hurst informed me the other day that Paul Pierce had come up with an exit similar to this recently, apparently using a heel/toe cam of some sort, though I think his exit took a different path since the exit holds I brushed were covered in dirt and lichen. If I find out more about this, I'll update this post...

New Problem (sort of) at the Mine Boulders

I made it down to Telluride this past weekend and found the usual crew- Wylder Wilson, Damon Johnston, Jim Hurst and Andy Cook- hard at work: clearing trails, looking for new boulders and giving fresh love to the chossy underbelly of one of the best looking lines in Telluride. We have all touched the holds on this climb at some point but decided the prospect of a seventy pound cobble breaking off on our face was not worth the risk. Well, after their admirable efforts, the line is now climbing beautifully--a 25-30 foot roof climbed on a wonderful assortment of pockets, incuts and cobbles leads to a difficult lip encounter and a satisfying cobble jug. No one has sent the full problem yet, but speculation is that it will fall somewhere in the v10 range. Here are some pics of Wylder working through several of the moves. (for those with a guidebook, this problem is located on the 'Gym Boulder')

Telluride Trip

Erika Curry-Elrod climbing 'Every Hole's A Goal' (v2) at the Mine Boulders.

Erika and I made a trip down to Telluride last weekend in order to get away from the Front Range for a few days. We watched the rodeo in Norwood, climbed a bit, hiked and shot a bunch of photos. (note: the first two photos were shot by me, the rest were taken by Erika- thanks!)

Tree House Bouldering Video

Tree House Boulders, Telluride from Tyler H on Vimeo.

Here's a video of my friend Tyler Hogan sending one of the best lines in Telluride- the 'Prow Project' at the Tree House Boulders . Not sure if anyone else has climbed this yet, but it's a spectacular line and a proud send for Tyler. Not sure about the grade yet either-- maybe v9? If anyone else has climbed this line, feel free to chip in your opinion on the grade. Enjoy!

An Afternoon At Ilium

Annabelle Boelema- 'This Airplane Will Crash Tomorrow' (v0+/1)

A quick update on Telluride bouldering conditions, as of April 5th:

Ilium-- scattered patches of snow on the ground, but all of the boulders are dry
The Mine-- still lots of snow on the ground and on many of the boulders, road still closed
The Cove-- dry boulders and no snow
Society Turn-- dry
Eider Creek/Tree House-- haven't been up there but the road looks dry and passable, probably still some patches of snow and wet spots on boulders, but the majority of climbs should be dry

Enjoy!

Spring Is Here

'Alien Traverse' v4/5
Society Turn- Telluride, Colorado

Telluride Bouldering Beta- The Mine Boulders

I thought it would be fun to share a little info on some of The Mine Boulders' classic problems. I have also listed the page number that this problem can be found on in the guidebook. Check out "A Bouldering Guide To The Telluride & West End Areas" by Christian Prellwitz for more information. The guide can be found locally at Between the Covers, Paragon Sports and Jagged Edge. It can also be found online at Bent Gate, as well as many other retailers.

(All pics courtesy of Erika Curry-Elrod)

'Karma' (v3) p.30

This mega classic line has a bit of everything. Follow the perfect line of edges and crimps up the right side of the wall to a dynamic move to a good, but flat jug. Pull through to a magical mystery top out hold. Simply amazing! One of the best problems in Telluride. Tip: beware of the rocks at the base, especially the one to the climber's right- they can definitely come into play if you come off unexpectedly.

'Clothes, Bankrolls & Hoes' (v7) p.30

About ten feet left of 'Karma', this problem ascends the center of the face starting matched on a good edge at around 6 feet. A powerful first pull to a small edge leads to a tiny crimp out left. Find some feet that work and make a big move to a better edge about 1-2 feet below the lip. If you made it this far, the top is a breeze! A somewhat funky landing that can be well protected with about three or more pads. Sort of highball. Clean and pure! Be sure to check out 'C.R.E.A.M.' (v6), which is the leftmost line on the face. Every line on this boulder is outstanding!

'Every Hole's A Goal' (v2) p.22

This line is one of the most tried/climbed problems in the Telluride area. Start matched in the giant hole, and follow an obvious line of pockets to the somewhat tall finish. Can be climbed with super techy beta or thuggery. Both ways are fun. A good introduction to the grade.

'The Crying Of Lot 49' v3/4 p.23

I suck at dynos so this problem is impossible for me to grade. Jim Hurst suggested v3, but he's tall with a big wingspan. I personally find this to be more like v4 and a challenge for me at that grade. Simple beta: grab a crimpy sidepull with the left and either a large crimpy pebble or a slopey edge (further right) with the right. Dyno for the triangle shaped hold. Sticking it is hard (for me at least!). There is another fun dyno problem to the left of this- 'Light Years' (v3/4)- starting matched on the big shelf and hucking for a textured sloper. The super classic 'Gravity's Rainbow' (v2+) climbs the arete at right.

'Broken Ankle' (v1+) p.23

This is one of the finest slabs in the Telluride area. A tricky start (take a look at the feet!) leads to beautifully flowing moves between small crimps and sidepulls, and a rewarding highball finish. This line deserves way more traffic than it gets! The line to the right, 'Broken Leg' (v0+), is an easier alternative (albeit with a much worse landing).

Some scenery:

Telluride Bouldering Beta- Ilium

I thought it would be fun to share a little info on some of Ilium's classic problems. I have also listed the page number that this problem can be found on in the guidebook. Check out "A Bouldering Guide To The Telluride & West End Areas" by Christian Prellwitz for more information. The guide can be found locally at Between the Covers, Paragon Sports and Jagged Edge. It can also be found online at Bent Gate, as well as many other retailers.

(All pics courtesy of Erika Curry-Elrod)

'Pinch' (v4) p.66

Given v3 in the book, this powerful prow probably falls more in the v4 range (maybe even hard v4?). Start sitting below the obvious prow with your left hand in a good undercling and your right on any one of an assortment of holds. Many people use a pinch (hence the name). I personally prefer a tiny crimp, located right above the pinch. Hard, burly moves ensue. This is one of my favorite problems at Ilium. But, you have to try hard!

'Itsy Bitsy Spider' (v7/8) p.75

The testpiece of the area. Thin crimps on a slightly overhanging face. Beautiful and pure. Start on the two obvious low crimps/edges. Make a hard move right to more crimps. Set your feet for the crux deadpoint to another sloping edge, just below the top. Snag this and then the top. Be ready for a tricky mantle. Pine needles often accumulate on the top of this boulder. Definitely brush the top before attempting. It would suck to fall after all the hard moves are over because of a few pine needles! It's important to note that 'Itsy Bitsy' does not use the good crimp further right. It seems plausible as a variation and is probably quite a bit easier (I haven't tried it yet). This crimp is also part of the 'Itsy Bitsy Arete' (v1+).

Spidey Sense (v4) p.75

Around the corner from 'Itsy Bitsy', this vertical face really boils down to the starting move. From a sit start, match hands on an obvious diagonal edge on the left side of the face. Choose from a selection of small feet. Pull hard and stick the slopey edge at 8.5 feet. Easy moves follow. Beware of the dirty top out.

Last Day At The Mine

Noah Sheedy bearing down on the 'Sunshine Arete' (v0+).

Lexi Tuddenham, Noah Sheedy, Kelly Merck and I celebrated Noah's impending birthday with a fun morning of climbing at the Mine Boulders. Though rain clouds loomed in the distance, they held off long enough for us to enjoy several hours of excellent bouldering. This was my last day climbing in Telluride before I leave for Australia for five months. Hopefully my next blog post will be some pictures of bouldering in the Grampians!

Lexi Tuddenham- 'Yellow Leaves' (v1+)

Lexi likes 'Crack' (v0+).

Telluride Bouldering- The Mine Boulders

Christian Prellwitz getting high on 'Point Break' (v2).

After a long stretch of rainy weather, Lexi and I were finally able to make it out to the Mine Boulders yesterday. Here are pictures of some of the classic problems.

Lexi Tuddenham pulling through 'Gravity's Rainbow' (v2+).

Christian latching the crimp on the first move of 'Karma' (v3+).

A different view of the same move.

Snagging the slopey jug on 'Karma'.

'Every Hole's A Goal' (v2)

Cathedral Ledge

Recently, my friend Jared Vilhauer came out from Telluride to visit me. We spent most of the 11 days he was here exploring the diversity of rock in the Northeast. From the perfect granite slabs of Cathedral Ledge, to the steep schist of Rumney, the alpine environment of Cannon and the juggy roofs of the Gunks, we saw a little bit of it all. Jared has most of the pics on his camera as it's size and weight made it the better choice for the multi pitch climbing we were doing. Here are a few I took on our first day at Cathedral Ledge.

1-Jared about to start up the great second pitch of 'Bombardment' (5.8). 2-Jared starting the second rappel after climbing 'Book of Solemnity' (5.10a).

One From The Tree House

It's been a while since I've posted. I am back on Long Island now and while I have gone climbing several times, I have been alone each time. Consequently, I have no pics. My policy is 'no pics, no post'. However, Damon Johnston just sent me a picture that he took of me climbing at the Tree House Boulders. This fun problem does not have a name yet but it is located just to the right of the problem Damon is climbing in my previous post. For more cool photos, check out Damon's blog.

It will be a while before I post again but when I do I should have plenty of pics. My friend Jared Vilhauer is flying here on Friday from Colorado and we are going to be spending 10 days climbing all throughout the Northeast. Plans include Cathedral Ledge, Whitehorse Ledge, Cannon Cliff, the Gunks, Rumney and several bouldering areas. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and we'll have lots of great pics to share!

Reel Rock Comes To Telluride

Last night, the Reel Rock Tour came to Telluride. The Sheridan Opera House was packed with people psyched on seeing the latest and greatest climbing films. The Tour did not disappoint. First, there were some great shorts- 'The Readiness Is All' was my favorite. The Big Up Dosage from Rocklands was amazing. The boulders are super aesthetic, and the climbing was inspiring. The feature film- First Ascent- was shot in beautiful HD and the landscapes were amazing. Props go to local Jim Hurst, who shot some of the best footage of the whole evening, in particular Dean Potter BASE-soloing the north face of the Eiger.

Damon and I did a little book signing before the show, and participated in the giveaway at intermission with tour organizer Peter Mortimer. We gave away some copies of our books, as well as some chalk bags and chalk buckets that Josh from Organic Climbing was nice enough to donate. Local shop Jagged Edge also gave away a number of items. Overall, it was a fun event and everyone left the theater stoked on climbing.

(below) Dasha Zamolodchikov working through the tricky opening moves of 'Frogger' on the Road Boulder at Ilium.

More From The Tree House

Here are a few more photos from the Tree House Boulders, courtesy of Damon Johnston.

Telluride Bouldering Revival

No, this is not the name of the headlining band at this year's Blues & Brews Festival. It's simply the best way that I can describe what's going on with Telluride bouldering right now. The quality of the boulders being uncovered in the Eider Creek area is phenomenal, and it seems like there are plenty more yet to be discovered. A large crew of climbers spent this past weekend up at the Tree House Boulders, cleaning and clearing a number of new problems. Here are some of the gems that were unearthed this weekend. 1-Jim Hurst is manly enough to wear a pink shirt. Is he manly enough to conquer 'Andy's Anal Tricks'? 2-There's no admission fee for this gun show. Scotty Michels powers through a difficult section on a still unclimbed line. 3-The Tree House looms in the background as Scotty Michels revels in the celebrity treatment on the 'Cheeseburger Arete'.

A Few More From Eider Creek

Damon Johnston, Jim Hurst, Daiva Chesonis and I headed out to Eider Creek again yesterday to climb some more problems and explore a little bit more. Jim found some incredible new boulders just a few minutes uphill from the Tree House. The new route potential here is amazing. We're all super excited to spend more time here this fall. Here's Jim and Damon on two of the great new problems in the area.