Telluride Bouldering Beta- Ilium

I thought it would be fun to share a little info on some of Ilium's classic problems. I have also listed the page number that this problem can be found on in the guidebook. Check out "A Bouldering Guide To The Telluride & West End Areas" by Christian Prellwitz for more information. The guide can be found locally at Between the Covers, Paragon Sports and Jagged Edge. It can also be found online at Bent Gate, as well as many other retailers.

(All pics courtesy of Erika Curry-Elrod)

'Pinch' (v4) p.66

Given v3 in the book, this powerful prow probably falls more in the v4 range (maybe even hard v4?). Start sitting below the obvious prow with your left hand in a good undercling and your right on any one of an assortment of holds. Many people use a pinch (hence the name). I personally prefer a tiny crimp, located right above the pinch. Hard, burly moves ensue. This is one of my favorite problems at Ilium. But, you have to try hard!

'Itsy Bitsy Spider' (v7/8) p.75

The testpiece of the area. Thin crimps on a slightly overhanging face. Beautiful and pure. Start on the two obvious low crimps/edges. Make a hard move right to more crimps. Set your feet for the crux deadpoint to another sloping edge, just below the top. Snag this and then the top. Be ready for a tricky mantle. Pine needles often accumulate on the top of this boulder. Definitely brush the top before attempting. It would suck to fall after all the hard moves are over because of a few pine needles! It's important to note that 'Itsy Bitsy' does not use the good crimp further right. It seems plausible as a variation and is probably quite a bit easier (I haven't tried it yet). This crimp is also part of the 'Itsy Bitsy Arete' (v1+).

Spidey Sense (v4) p.75

Around the corner from 'Itsy Bitsy', this vertical face really boils down to the starting move. From a sit start, match hands on an obvious diagonal edge on the left side of the face. Choose from a selection of small feet. Pull hard and stick the slopey edge at 8.5 feet. Easy moves follow. Beware of the dirty top out.

Chasing The Sun

Christian Prellwitz- 'Blankety Blank (sit)' (v6/7)

'Black Box Arete Right' (v3)

Lucy Hidden sending an unnamed v1

Castleton Tower

'Split Boulder Left' (v2)

'La Derecha (sit)' v3

Around The Bend

It's really about the moments. The highs and the lows. What we receive and what we give. The places bring back memories of scouring winds, middle of nowhere diners, sunshine and warm sandstone. The canyons provide the medium. We provide the story. Success and failure, smiles and frustration. And all we can hope for is the opportunity to do it all again.

The pics: (above) Christian Prellwitz prepping for the business on 'Kelly's Arete' (v5). (below) 1-Christian moving through the difficulties of 'Sling Blade' (v4). 2-Lexi Tuddenham styling her way up 'Todd's Easy Arete' (v2). 3-Lexi about to take her own 'Bitter Bite' (v3). 4-Beautiful sandstone.

More From Moab

Another stretch of beautiful weather afforded Lexi Tuddenham and I the opportunity to head to Moab to boulder. Here are the results of two sunny days.

The pics: (above) Lexi Tuddenham trying not to get shut down by 'The Pregnancy Arete' (V2). (below) 1-Match on the arete, bump to crimps and move into the high step slab finish- 'Aunt Jemima' (v3). 2-And it's over. Grabbing the good edge on 'Mr. Trujillo's Big Day' (V2). 3-Lexi Tuddenham maneuvering on the accurately named 'Short Stuff' (V1). 4- The before. 5-The after. Christian Prellwitz slapping for the top on 'Black Slab' (V4).

Atomic Energy Bouldering

Two friends, Lexi and Sarah, and I drove out to Naturita on Friday to sample some of the fine bouldering at the Atomic Energy Crag. This collection of blocks (and roped climbs) offers some of the best bouldering in the West End, with around 100 problems spread out over a large boulderfield with expansive views of the La Sal Mountains to the west and the San Juans to the east. Check out info on this spot and many others in 'A Guide To Bouldering In The Telluride & West End Areas (Of Southwest Colorado)'.

The pics: (above) Lexi Tuddenham stretches for the horizontal before the final mantel on 'Box Car Sidepull' (V1). (below) 1-The starting left hand pocket of 'Hob Knob' (V1+). 2-Lexi Tuddenham shows off the optional downclimb for problems on the Shark Fin boulder. 3-Sarah Carden dances over stone in the last rays of the day on 'Sunshine Arete' (V0).