Telluride Bouldering Beta- The Mine Boulders

I thought it would be fun to share a little info on some of The Mine Boulders' classic problems. I have also listed the page number that this problem can be found on in the guidebook. Check out "A Bouldering Guide To The Telluride & West End Areas" by Christian Prellwitz for more information. The guide can be found locally at Between the Covers, Paragon Sports and Jagged Edge. It can also be found online at Bent Gate, as well as many other retailers.

(All pics courtesy of Erika Curry-Elrod)

'Karma' (v3) p.30

This mega classic line has a bit of everything. Follow the perfect line of edges and crimps up the right side of the wall to a dynamic move to a good, but flat jug. Pull through to a magical mystery top out hold. Simply amazing! One of the best problems in Telluride. Tip: beware of the rocks at the base, especially the one to the climber's right- they can definitely come into play if you come off unexpectedly.

'Clothes, Bankrolls & Hoes' (v7) p.30

About ten feet left of 'Karma', this problem ascends the center of the face starting matched on a good edge at around 6 feet. A powerful first pull to a small edge leads to a tiny crimp out left. Find some feet that work and make a big move to a better edge about 1-2 feet below the lip. If you made it this far, the top is a breeze! A somewhat funky landing that can be well protected with about three or more pads. Sort of highball. Clean and pure! Be sure to check out 'C.R.E.A.M.' (v6), which is the leftmost line on the face. Every line on this boulder is outstanding!

'Every Hole's A Goal' (v2) p.22

This line is one of the most tried/climbed problems in the Telluride area. Start matched in the giant hole, and follow an obvious line of pockets to the somewhat tall finish. Can be climbed with super techy beta or thuggery. Both ways are fun. A good introduction to the grade.

'The Crying Of Lot 49' v3/4 p.23

I suck at dynos so this problem is impossible for me to grade. Jim Hurst suggested v3, but he's tall with a big wingspan. I personally find this to be more like v4 and a challenge for me at that grade. Simple beta: grab a crimpy sidepull with the left and either a large crimpy pebble or a slopey edge (further right) with the right. Dyno for the triangle shaped hold. Sticking it is hard (for me at least!). There is another fun dyno problem to the left of this- 'Light Years' (v3/4)- starting matched on the big shelf and hucking for a textured sloper. The super classic 'Gravity's Rainbow' (v2+) climbs the arete at right.

'Broken Ankle' (v1+) p.23

This is one of the finest slabs in the Telluride area. A tricky start (take a look at the feet!) leads to beautifully flowing moves between small crimps and sidepulls, and a rewarding highball finish. This line deserves way more traffic than it gets! The line to the right, 'Broken Leg' (v0+), is an easier alternative (albeit with a much worse landing).

Some scenery:

Telluride Bouldering Beta- Ilium

I thought it would be fun to share a little info on some of Ilium's classic problems. I have also listed the page number that this problem can be found on in the guidebook. Check out "A Bouldering Guide To The Telluride & West End Areas" by Christian Prellwitz for more information. The guide can be found locally at Between the Covers, Paragon Sports and Jagged Edge. It can also be found online at Bent Gate, as well as many other retailers.

(All pics courtesy of Erika Curry-Elrod)

'Pinch' (v4) p.66

Given v3 in the book, this powerful prow probably falls more in the v4 range (maybe even hard v4?). Start sitting below the obvious prow with your left hand in a good undercling and your right on any one of an assortment of holds. Many people use a pinch (hence the name). I personally prefer a tiny crimp, located right above the pinch. Hard, burly moves ensue. This is one of my favorite problems at Ilium. But, you have to try hard!

'Itsy Bitsy Spider' (v7/8) p.75

The testpiece of the area. Thin crimps on a slightly overhanging face. Beautiful and pure. Start on the two obvious low crimps/edges. Make a hard move right to more crimps. Set your feet for the crux deadpoint to another sloping edge, just below the top. Snag this and then the top. Be ready for a tricky mantle. Pine needles often accumulate on the top of this boulder. Definitely brush the top before attempting. It would suck to fall after all the hard moves are over because of a few pine needles! It's important to note that 'Itsy Bitsy' does not use the good crimp further right. It seems plausible as a variation and is probably quite a bit easier (I haven't tried it yet). This crimp is also part of the 'Itsy Bitsy Arete' (v1+).

Spidey Sense (v4) p.75

Around the corner from 'Itsy Bitsy', this vertical face really boils down to the starting move. From a sit start, match hands on an obvious diagonal edge on the left side of the face. Choose from a selection of small feet. Pull hard and stick the slopey edge at 8.5 feet. Easy moves follow. Beware of the dirty top out.

Arkansas Trip, Pt. 3-Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, AR

After leaving Fountain Red, we headed to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch for the night. This place is the epicenter of climbing in Arkansas, hosting a multitude of quality routes and bouldering. We enjoyed a nice 4th of July dinner, and then spent the evening watching an incredible fireworks show. The next morning, we explored some of the bouldering in the area, and then spent the rest of the day canoeing along the Buffalo National River with a group of Erika's friends. It was a great way to finish out a wonderful trip.

A view of Horseshoe Canyon Ranch

Arkansas Trip, Pt. 2- Fountain Red, AR

Christian Prellwitz- 'Rings of Uranus' (v3)

After attending the wedding festivities on Saturday, Erika and I spent Sunday climbing the beautiful sandstone blocks of Fountain Red. The name is a tongue in cheek reference to the famous French bouldering area 'Fontainebleau'. While this spot is certainly not the Font of the U.S. (that honor probably goes to HP40), it is still a great little area with a number of high quality lines that would be classics anywhere. Fountain Red was typical of most of the climbing I saw in Arkansas. There is no singularly outstanding area, but rather many fun, small (2-5 dozen problems) areas spread throughout the state, particularly in the Cowell/Jasper area. While somewhat lacking in quantity, all of these areas contain high quality sandstone with some amazing features and are definitely worth checking out if you're in the area.

Erika and I had a great time battling through the maze of backcountry roads, incredibly high humidity (and temps) and swarming bugs to find the gems of Arkansas bouldering. Getting off the beaten path and seeing a side of the state that few visitors see is one of the great appeals of climbing to me. There's no place I'd rather be than driving along red dirt roads overhung with lush green foliage in search of hidden blocks. That's where all the good stuff is anyway.

(All pics courtesy of Erika Curry-Elrod)

'El Nino' (v4)

'El Nino' (v4)

'Ring Around the Rosy' (v2)

Sticking the crux sloper on the ultra classic 'Le Beak' (v4)

'Le Beak' (v4)

'Rings of Uranus' (v3)

Arkansas Trip, Pt. 1- Rock City, KS

Erika and I spent the 4th of July weekend road tripping to and from Arkansas in order to attend her friend's wedding. Our first stop along the way was Rock City, Kansas. This anomaly of sandstone eggs is located about 20 minutes north of I-70, near Salina. Having passed by the exit numerous times during cross country drives, I decided it was finally time to see what this place was all about. Though certainly not a climbing destination, this place is worth checking out for a few hours if you're in the area. These high quality sandstone blocks are adorned with some incredibly unique features and offer about 2 to 3 dozen problems in the v0-v4 range (depending on your creativity). Not bad for Kansas!

Flagstaff Mountain

'West Side' (v0)

Erika and I went up to Flagstaff a couple of days ago to test out her new climbing shoes on the mountain's fabled boulders. Though the rock in this area is not the highest quality, the convenience, quantity and history still make it worth visiting. It was quite hot, but I still had a lot of fun lapping easy problems so that Erika could test out her camera skills.

Eldorado Canyon

Blanket Flower

My friend Malin and I braved the 90 degree temperatures yesterday and went bouldering in Eldorado Canyon. Though conditions were not even close to ideal, it was still an enjoyable day of climbing, and it's always fun to check out new areas. I'm excited to get on some routes here sometime in the future.

Stepping onto the glassy smear of 'Milton' (v4- felt more like v5 in direct 90 degree sunshine!)

Latching the top on 'Milton' (v4)

Mt. Evans

Bristlecone Pine Sunset

We spent yesterday exploring the alpine bouldering of Mt. Evans. The hike was quite a slog, as advertised. The climbing was amazing, also as advertised. I was feeling weak, so I didn't get on any of the higher end lines that I had my eye on. But, I did manage to climb a bunch of the classics and the stunning scenery made it all worth it. Trying to put off the long hike back to the car at the end of the day, I channeled my inner Zoolander and broke into a bit of a pose off.

Christian Prellwitz cruising the classic highball 'Timeline' (v0+).
Grabbing the jug at the top feels so good!

'Last of the Ohitians' (v1)

'The Ladder' (v2)

Ice on Summit Lake

Blue

Crashpad Magazine cover photo

If see this man, please report him to the authorities...

Showing off a range of looks...

Boulder!

Small Flowered Penstemon (i think)

As you may or may not know, I have moved to Boulder, Colorado for the summer. I decided it was time to take a break from the box canyon. I'll be working, taking two grad classes (photography and journalism), playing some hockey and training hard for climbing. I'm super psyched about the training opportunities. There are four climbing gyms in Boulder alone. I'm living in a house with two Naropa University students, meeting a lot of cool, new people and loving it all so far. Anyhow, here are some pics I've taken of the area.

Downtown Boulder at sunset

A scene from Boulder Canyon. One of the hardest boulder problems in the world- 'The Game' (V16, Daniel Woods)- climbs out the pointy prow on the right side of the photo. You can also spot some climbers using the Tyrolean traverse to cross the creek in the bottom left of the photo.

Bouldering World Cup- Vail, CO

Boulder at night

Flagstaff Mountain- Artist's Point