Saturday, May 4, 2013

Telluride Bouldering Beta Part 4- More From The Ilium Boulders

This video was filmed during the Fall of 2012. The goal was to continue to showcase some of best problems in Telluride, at all grades. I also made it a point to show some newer problems that were cleaned and climbed since the guidebook came out. These include 'Year Of Hibernation', 'Rainy Days In Bas Cuvier', 'Headlights Like Diamonds', 'The Hurst Problem' and 'Super Frogger'.

Problems shown include: 'All Our Yesterdays' (v6), 'Year Of Hibernation' (v6), 'Rainy Days In Bas Cuvier' (v3/4), 'Headlights Like Diamonds' (v5/6), 'Pinch' (v4), 'Fuck The Method' (v5), 'The Hurst Problem' (v5), 'Super Frogger' (V6), 'Free Range Sit' (v4) and 'Your Climbing Makes My Eyes Bleed' (v1+).

Some of the grades are different than what was given in the guidebook. This is simply an attempt to reflect the current grade consensus for each problem.

Hopefully this video will inspire and motivate people to visit/explore Ilium and Telluride. As always, comments/questions/thoughts are always welcome!


Telluride Bouldering Beta Part 3- The Cove & Society Turn

This video was filmed during the winter of 2012-13. It showcases the bouldering from two spots in the Telluride area- The Cove and Society Turn. Though not as dense in quality or quantity as either Ilium or The Mine Boulders, both The Cove and Society Turn offer worthwhile problems on good quality stone. I tried to showcase some of the best problems at each area. Hopefully this entices some people to check these spots out!

Problems shown include:
From The Cove- 'Sometimes I Still Feel The Bruise, Right Exit' (v0), 'Flat Top Left Arete' (v3/4), 'Dyno-mite' (v6), and 'The Lesson' (jump start, v3/4).
From Society Turn- 'The Alien Traverse' (v6/7), 'Yarra River Eliminate' (v4/5) and 'Frosted Flakes Sit' (v5).

Some of the grades are different than the guidebook. This is an attempt to reflect what the current grade consensus is.

Special Note: 'The Lesson' is an outstanding problem. The true stand start starts one move lower with the left hand on a small angled crimp. You pull on to the wall, establish, and then figure out a way to grab the higher crimp out left. There are a couple of different options. Though it only adds about one move into the 'jump start', it is quite difficult and is likely around v8. I tried to get the stand start on video, but was unable to send it on any of the days I was filming.

As always, thoughts/comments are always welcome. Enjoy!

Friday, May 3, 2013

Spring Climbing Trip

Post ski season, Erika and I were able to make it out to Vegas and Bishop for about 10 days. During our time in Bishop, we primarily climbed at Rock Creek, due to the warm temps and my deep love for that place. In Vegas, we squeezed in an evening session at the Red Springs Boulders. Even though temps were in the high 80's, the shade and extremely windy weather made climbing possible. In both cases, I wanted to show some of the lesser shown/highlighted problems from those areas.
Problems shown include: 'Unnamed' (v7), 'The Fluke' (v8), 'Camel Love' (v4), 'Off The Couch' (v6), and 'The Blunder Bus' (v6)-- all from Rock Creek. And, 'The Prayer' (v6) from Red Springs.