Telluride Bouldering Beta- Ilium

I thought it would be fun to share a little info on some of Ilium's classic problems. I have also listed the page number that this problem can be found on in the guidebook. Check out "A Bouldering Guide To The Telluride & West End Areas" by Christian Prellwitz for more information. The guide can be found locally at Between the Covers, Paragon Sports and Jagged Edge. It can also be found online at Bent Gate, as well as many other retailers.

(All pics courtesy of Erika Curry-Elrod)

'Pinch' (v4) p.66

Given v3 in the book, this powerful prow probably falls more in the v4 range (maybe even hard v4?). Start sitting below the obvious prow with your left hand in a good undercling and your right on any one of an assortment of holds. Many people use a pinch (hence the name). I personally prefer a tiny crimp, located right above the pinch. Hard, burly moves ensue. This is one of my favorite problems at Ilium. But, you have to try hard!

'Itsy Bitsy Spider' (v7/8) p.75

The testpiece of the area. Thin crimps on a slightly overhanging face. Beautiful and pure. Start on the two obvious low crimps/edges. Make a hard move right to more crimps. Set your feet for the crux deadpoint to another sloping edge, just below the top. Snag this and then the top. Be ready for a tricky mantle. Pine needles often accumulate on the top of this boulder. Definitely brush the top before attempting. It would suck to fall after all the hard moves are over because of a few pine needles! It's important to note that 'Itsy Bitsy' does not use the good crimp further right. It seems plausible as a variation and is probably quite a bit easier (I haven't tried it yet). This crimp is also part of the 'Itsy Bitsy Arete' (v1+).

Spidey Sense (v4) p.75

Around the corner from 'Itsy Bitsy', this vertical face really boils down to the starting move. From a sit start, match hands on an obvious diagonal edge on the left side of the face. Choose from a selection of small feet. Pull hard and stick the slopey edge at 8.5 feet. Easy moves follow. Beware of the dirty top out.