(All pics courtesy of Erika Curry-Elrod)
This mega classic line has a bit of everything. Follow the perfect line of edges and crimps up the right side of the wall to a dynamic move to a good, but flat jug. Pull through to a magical mystery top out hold. Simply amazing! One of the best problems in Telluride. Tip: beware of the rocks at the base, especially the one to the climber's right- they can definitely come into play if you come off unexpectedly.
'Clothes, Bankrolls & Hoes' (v7) p.30
About ten feet left of 'Karma', this problem ascends the center of the face starting matched on a good edge at around 6 feet. A powerful first pull to a small edge leads to a tiny crimp out left. Find some feet that work and make a big move to a better edge about 1-2 feet below the lip. If you made it this far, the top is a breeze! A somewhat funky landing that can be well protected with about three or more pads. Sort of highball. Clean and pure! Be sure to check out 'C.R.E.A.M.' (v6), which is the leftmost line on the face. Every line on this boulder is outstanding!
This line is one of the most tried/climbed problems in the Telluride area. Start matched in the giant hole, and follow an obvious line of pockets to the somewhat tall finish. Can be climbed with super techy beta or thuggery. Both ways are fun. A good introduction to the grade.
'The Crying Of Lot 49' v3/4 p.23
I suck at dynos so this problem is impossible for me to grade. Jim Hurst suggested v3, but he's tall with a big wingspan. I personally find this to be more like v4 and a challenge for me at that grade. Simple beta: grab a crimpy sidepull with the left and either a large crimpy pebble or a slopey edge (further right) with the right. Dyno for the triangle shaped hold. Sticking it is hard (for me at least!). There is another fun dyno problem to the left of this- 'Light Years' (v3/4)- starting matched on the big shelf and hucking for a textured sloper. The super classic 'Gravity's Rainbow' (v2+) climbs the arete at right.
'Broken Ankle' (v1+) p.23
Some scenery:
This is one of the finest slabs in the Telluride area. A tricky start (take a look at the feet!) leads to beautifully flowing moves between small crimps and sidepulls, and a rewarding highball finish. This line deserves way more traffic than it gets! The line to the right, 'Broken Leg' (v0+), is an easier alternative (albeit with a much worse landing).
Some scenery:
No comments:
Post a Comment