More From Ilium

Today we spent some more time at Ilium, climbing some fun problems and cleaning some of the problems on the Black & Tan Boulder. All of the problems were looking really sweet by the time we were done. One problem that we spent a lot of time on was the right arete (when looking at the main face of the boulder). This problem is listed as the 'Black & Tan Arete' in the guidebook. This problem has an interesting story. When I was researching the guidebook, I was told this arete had been climbed and went at V3. It was quite mossy, but seemed to be plausible, especially if one used the killer undercling to the right. The hard moves are all in the first half, and then it's glorious jugs to the top. I figured I would come back and clean it, and all would be good to go. Well, it took me a long time to get around to cleaning it. After vigorous removal of moss, lichen and pine needles the problem was ready to be climbed. Damon Johnston showed up shortly thereafter and started giving the problem some serious burns. We decided to do this problem the 'proud way' and started from the lowest holds- left hand on the sidepull at the right end of the shelf, right hand on a small sharp edge, both at 2.5-3 feet. We also decided to avoid the holds out right and climb the true arete, finishing up and slightly left for a tenuous, full value top out. This new take on an old problem has outstanding and hard moves with sneaky beta.

Here is Damon on the 'first ascent' of an old problem. We named it 'Climbed Out', and graded it V5. The name comes from the fact that everyone keeps telling us Ilium is climbed out but we keep finding new and fun lines. All you need is a sense of adventure and a wire brush. The stand start, off of small crimps directly on the arete at 5 feet, goes at V2-ish. Enjoy!